My Great, Wide, Beautiful World

[JUANITA HARRISON is an American colored woman who at the age of thirty-six undertook to work her way around the world. Born in Mississippi, she had a few months of schooling before she was ten. Then began an endless round of cooking, washing, and ironing in an overburdened household. These sordid, unsparing years steeled in her the determination to escape, and to see the world.

She began her travels when she was sixteen, moving from one city to another as she found employment, until her journeying extended to Canada and Cuba. Wherever it was possible, she attended classes at the Y. W. C. A. or night school. Having trained herself to be a lady’s maid, she ambitiously took up the study of Spanish and French. At Los Angeles her employers, Mr. and Mrs. George W. Dickinson, became her devoted friends; she remained in their service for four years. With their aid her savings were wisely invested, and by 1927 yielded her an income of about $200 a year. With this slender security, and still determined to work her way, she embarked for England. Her passports show that she lived in twenty-two different countries from 1927 to 1935.

Juanita spells by ear and knows no rules of grammar; her writing is artless and vivid, like that of some happy pilgrim of Chaucer’s. These excerpts from her letters, which have been arranged for us by Miss Mildred Morris, are printed exactly as they were written. Churches, weddings, funerals, bullfights, pageants, family life, food,— above all, good food, — caught her attention. For her there existed no barriers of class or race. She has a faculty for making friends; she believed that everyone would like her and she was not disappointed. Frequently she adopted the garb of the country she visited. Her slight form, fresh olive complexion, long hair braided about her head, made her appear younger than her years.

Now, having circled the globe, she has settled down on the island of Hawaii. Whatever else the journal may be, it is certainly genuine. — THE EDITORS]

NEW YORK CITY, June 25, 1927
NORTH GERMAN LLOYD PIER
HOBOKEN, N. J. A BEAUTIFUL June Morning. I arrived at 9 A.M. with my two suit cases the larger one with 2 blue dresses 2 white dresses and one black, aprons caps and references. The smaller one with my dress up cloths, and 2 jars of sour cucumber pikles which is so good to keep from being sea sick. Our cabins looked good. I always want a upper berth I dont want anybody making it down on me. I went to the 1st and 2nd Class. Their towels looked more linnen so I took 2, the soap smelt sweeter so I took 2 cakes. I went up to the writing room and the paper was the kind you love to touch so I took much and tuked it away in my bunk. We sailed at 1.30 P.M. When I got up on deck it were crouded passangers and friends a German band were playing and all were singing sweet sounding German songs. and the money was flying like rice at a wedding then the Kissing and the good Byes and the raining of tears, and I was happy that I had no one to cry for me.

June 28, ON BOAD S.S. SERRA VENTANA
There are many lovely goodlooking young men and Ladies on boad Today have been a bit rough I prize the pikles. My table mate read the mune for me the food is good. Our waiter is a hansom Boy about 18. this is his first trip so being the green horn we must wait. Herr Paul Huttrig are giving me german lessons I like him because he speak such broken English he is all for America his head reach to my sholders and sure he felt like a very big man when he get his new suit to ware home and choosed by his feeling other than his size because its so much to large for him even his collars is to large in the neck. I am to let him know when I visit there this summer.

July 2
In the Tourist Third are a Young Student Doctor from a town call ‘a Way cross Georgia’ Ga. and He keep very much to himself. I ask him why and he say he do not care to mix with emigrants. I said these are respectful buisness people going home to visit. He had never been away from his little Georgia Town and read about emigrants at Ellis Island, he has no passport the poor kid is about 19 his greatest ambison is to study medician in Edinburg and he just took a chance.

July 5th, LONDON, ENGLAND
Arrived at 1 A.M. an ugly woman was cleaning the waiting room and a Pretty Irish girl was expecting her sister on the 3 A.M. train she taught me how to count the English money. Then she streched out on one of the comfortable leather couches and I on another. it was a plesant night. The first look at London I liked it. It was a beautiful morning the maids in their neat blue dresses and white caps was cleaning the brass whiting the door steps and scrubing the sidewalks. I promised myself when I looked for a job not to get in a house with such work but instead a appartment.
I went to the Y. W. C. A. They were filled up with Studients so sent me to several addresses I had a desire to stay in a Manison [mansion] so liked best Princess Manison at Rochester Court. I got a nice room with meals 20 shillings I sat at a table of six. one dish of each thing served for two. A young, blond dancer and I shared and I let her have most of it she looked so hungry and I would soon be on a job where I would have plenty. My room was plesant but on the wall hung two pictures of pretty women weeping at a grave and when I turn off the light I could not go to sleep so I take them down at night and put them in the closet and hang them back each morning.

July 8th
Well here are so many jobs you just walk to a corner cards are tacked on the wall of a newspaper place you copy the address and go for an interview. I visited many I just went to see the house and to learn what they paid. I got a job with a South American Lady because I had worked in Cuba and learned Spanish. She has 2 boys in school and a pretty daughter in a convent. They are from Bolivia La Senora is lonely for her country so cry very much. the apt. is nicely furnished but this being my first job since I left the swell apt on West End Ave. N. Y. I am disgusted because ever time they want a bath I must make a fire in a little chocked up heater. the Boys go to the Publice bath house La Senora go without I am bathing in a zink bucket.

August 7th
What a wonderful city London are. I gave up my Spanish place so to take in some cheap rate trips. You never get so tired here as you do in N. Y. the traffice are just hanled wounderful you never wait long.

August 8th
I went to Stratford-on-Avon yesterday with a motor party. I crossed the bridge to get a view of the Church just then a heavy shower came. I stood on a poch and talked with a plesant little man with bad teeth. He told me many lovely things about Stratford-on-Avon. He had never been to London. I did not go round the main road to Ann Hawthways Home but cut acrossed the field like Ann used to do. I went to the Station to enquire about the Excursion rates to Scotland and the last leave London, the 13th. I can go to Irland first on their last excursion and get back at night then leave next morning at 8.50 A.M. for Scotland.

August 10th
We arrived at Fishgard Harbour before dark from the smell of Fish it is true to its name. the boat were packed soon it seem to me it was going as fast as lightning and a noisy sound just like a churn. A Father was calling to his son Mick am I dying and Mick answer in the same voice Yes. The deck was like a skating rink. I made to a pile of ropes and sitting bent over a fat woman came and sat on my back I tried to twist her off but she just sat groaning. anyway she kept me warm most of the sailors were also sick. the saying limber as a dish rag sure fitted in well for there were nothing else on boad. Arrived at Rosslare Harbour island at 4 A.M. all looking weak.
At 6 A.M. we left for Cork in the compartment were one man and 3 plesant Ladies the youngest had the luck to sit on the side with him. I sat tryangle like in the corner to get a close up on the four and at the same time the green fields, a turf used to devide each land. The Gentleman say he never want to go to London again no one speak so I said I never want to come to Irland again. after that auful trip. then we all brighten up. He began making love to the Miss by his side. Then he said to me he couldnt see what joy I got out of always traveling by myself I said I havent said I was always by myself. Look at you now you are traveling and not by yourself. We had a most plesant trip to Cork. He offred to take me about to the interesting places. I know I could do better alone so I thank him.
In my walking I found Pattys market like the low East side in New York only smaller. There was 2 sweet faced little onion girls selling a big bunch of onions. Being quite empty I looked up a place to eat and found “Jacksons Dinning Room” It had just what I wanted the Waitress was an old Girl but a quick steper. at the long table sat several most men. We had fresh boiled hog head and white Cabbag. now no body can cook cabbag to beat the Irish of Cork not even the American Colored Southerners. the old girl was shocked when I had finished up the enourmous dinner and ask her to bring another just like it. then a dish of rice pudding and I felt just right. The Castle are lovely in Cork.

IN ROUTE TO EDINBURGH
I left at 8.30 A.M. I always go early on these excursion trips so I get a good seat in the compartment. There were two pretty English girls very gay over being off on a holiday their 2 suite cases looked new but they had a funny basket like trunk a man was putting Stickers on the bags I looked up at their basket it looked so dull and the tag so bright I said stick it on that one it will give it a more cheerful look. Then we became a joly three. They say are you going to have a holiday I said yes for about 2 or 3 years. When I told them I was from Los Angeles they thought it just wonderful. They had a bottle of violet toilet water and every second they was washing their hands and faces and powding and each time gave me some.

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND
This is a grand Old City I just love to slop around in the old street lanes and archways I came around a alley way and saw an awful fight between 3 men and a woman over a bag pipe It was a family affair when they got through the bag pipe wasnt anything but strings.

Sept. 18, LONDON, MAIDA VALE
I spent a week looking for a place and enjoyed it as much as any of my trips. I knew the English servants very well I worked in a big house in Iowa with them and they were selfish and jelious I have often hear it that they were the heardest of all servants to get along with I also knew the English ladies I worked for one in Canada and one in Cuba. They have their servant problems here. You can get a place as maid to a Lady but here are always one or two or more pets to look after. I was trying to decide if I wanted to be a maid to a Lady and nurse to her three cats. or a general maid to a young Japanese couple with 2 children when I passed an agent and got a place if I had it made to order it would have been just like this. I am with the cutest little young widow her husband were a noted flyer and wore kill in the war six months before her little boy were born.
She is an Italian Countess she is my idea of a real Countess I look after her beautiful cloths and she knows how to wear them. I keep the apt. clean and take care of Polar and Negri being the clevest little monkey and Negri a Black Chinese lap dog. she is just like a little Chinese Lady. her little boy is at boading school.
Madam is quite a Flyer herself she is a friend of all the best Family in London she cannot forget her husband and never miss going to his grave one day in each week. Two very fine Gentlemen want to marrie Her but I dont think she will take either of them.
The foreign people are the best to work for. I am not getting much money but I am having an auful lot of experence. I am glad I didnt buy a winter dress because Madam gave me a lovely one so that means 2 or 3 pounds saved. I am getting quite English you never say excuse me instead you say I am sorry. The English men are great lovers and very fond of kissing I think that they would make poor husbands. so far I have managered to excuse myself before dark altho they are very nice I wouldnt like to be kissed as most of them women and men has bad teeth. It must be from smoking and drinking much tea and eating sweets.

Oct. 5th
Today Madam told me she will give me Two pounds more than she paid the other maid because she like me so much better. all of her friends seem to be Ladys and Lords and I like all that I have seen yet. one very Rich Gentleman are so much in love with Her but she only let him come when she have quite a bit of shopping to do and dont want to drive her sporty little car herself. I like him because he ofen gives me a 2 shilling piece at the door.

Nov. 17th
I am glad I can see even beauty in the fog. A very dear friend of Madam is a member of Parliment and so I went to the House of Commons and heard two debats. Its the warmest house I have found yet in London. I dont know how they can see to read it was so dark in there I went to sleep.
The 4 most populer things in London are Fogs bad weather bad colds and chilblains the most rarest thing is the Sun. Madam leaves for Paris in a few days to attend a wedding she will take me with her if I promise to come back I havent decided yet wether I want to go under those conditions. Two Ladies ring me up when they hear Madam are going and said when I had finished with Mme. to come and see them so that means I can get a place easyer here than in the U. S. I am rejoicing because I dont expect to ever spend another winter here. We are having a few sunny hours each day but cold I think I will go to France and work.

Nov. 27th, BOULOGNE-SUR-MER
It was a rough crossing. When I left London my Lady knew I was not coming back I thanked her for all her kindness. Madam left the same day by Newhaven I promise to be in Paris by Monday to help her to dress for the Wedding. I went about Boulogne as though I had lived here all my life and I looked so much like one of the Fishman wives even the coustom offices refused to look through my baggage. most of the women have long hair and dress it in two brads as I do all I laked was ear rings I had 2 pairs in my case Mme. gave me. Well I put on my correll ear rings and was a perfect Boulognenesser and for my French I can put out the words but its the Frenchmans hard luck to get them round in the proper place. I hope they enjoy it as much as I do.
This place are famous for bologna sausage so my first shopping was a penny and half worth a third of a penny loaf. and 2 large sauces of fresh whipped cream that was my first meal on the French soil and it was joly good. This are like a Cuban Town norrow streets and the women ware black shawls over their heads and the sea front are very much like Havana. I am cerlonly enjoying the labor and money I put in French lessons the year I took in Cuba and the winter in Los Angeles. I can do some good laying out if I hafter.

PARIS, FRANCE, Dec. 4th
The London Y. had written me a nice letter for the Y. W. C. A. in Paris so I had a very plesant welcome. I went and found a room just as nice and much cheaper than the ones they knew. steam heat good bed clean as a pin and the Lady so nice for 77 francs a week. I know French in a Jewish way and can always Jew them down. then I have a dress and Hat I arrive in and they never trouble taking my suite case or offering a taxi after one look at me I am sure they say she cant afford it. I have been in every corner of the city and all by foot. The men are like the Spanish men great love makers lucky for me the 3 French teachers I had 2 old maids and the other married didnt teach me one word of how to flirt anyway I know how to get rid of them I said something to them and did not know the meaning but it served well. A young Italian boy at the market speak English so I ask him all the silly things I told him what I said to the men. He said it ment Please walk away. Paris is such a beautiful city and clean. I think I love London the best there are something so grand about London. I have called to see Madam at the Hotel but she was out.

Dec. 10 th
I put an add in the New York Herald Paris and received so many answers from French American Spanish and English and they were all good places. This place was just what I wanted. A very nice Lady of New York, Mrs. Morris with Two Grown Daughters. one of the Daughters is a writer and the mother said my travellers should be put into a Book. I told her I would come back after my trip to India and work for nothing if Miss Mildred, the Daughter would help me. I was looking for a place with lots of Francs lots of time off and a little work and I have that Having so much time I decided to take German as I may go there this summer. I wanted to know something about the Paris Artists life that I had heard of so went in the naborhood of Ecole des Beaux Arts and found the nicest little German artist 24 years. He is a good teacher and I went sevral times to have lessons in his little attic room. He get auful peaved if I haven studied. He knows English quite well have studied in London. Now I have Him to come and give me lessons to my nice big room. He has not charged me anything yet. I have 2 lessons a week.

Dec. 15th
I get a lot of joy from marketing as each country are diffrent. You go to market with an all over black satin apron and a black oil skin bag. they have delicous chickens ducks and squabs fresh every day. When I go to the open market there is a great pile of cauliflouer greens they throw away I use them to cook with pork and then put a little olive oil and vengar on them the women stand watching me pick over the piles with hands on their hips trying to study what I could do with those big leaves. The Paris policeman are adorble although they are polite and keep order they can just be human so quick always ready for a nice smile I look at them a second time and they answer with a quick look but they cant foller you so I fool along with them.
I made my Madam laugh today when I came back from visiting the Cemtery Pere Chase. The caretaker there began smiling at me. I had my Guide book he said Oh would you like to see the monments then I will walk with you. He begain to kiss my hand. there were two women near by weeping he said I have kissed your hand wont you let me kiss you. Oh, I said Here then I broke away from him and ran around the Pyrmid, he was blowing and puffing after me the two women stoped crying and watch us I ran ahead of him and got away. So I said to my Madam Chase is a good name for that Cemtery.

Dec. 28th
Their Xmas are quite dull to ours you see so few trees. I had some nice presents and we had a perfect jucy tender and brown real American turkey. Going to market I stoped in a Grand old Church to Pray and found the alter thick with cooks their black bags on their arms. I read up many good Books on Paris and Visit all the Places. Every book on France are full of Blood and yet they are the most Gayest of all nations they know how to forget. Every Dec. 28 the calender say I am another year old but 1927 found me the same age I was 15 years ago and I expect to be that same age at least 10 years more anyway.

Feb. 5th, 1928
I went out to the Garden d’Acclimatation where they are haveing a expostion of Central Afircanes from the French part of Africa. I climbed over the fence and got in the native village where the Plate mouthed women are. a slip is cut just wide enough in the lip to fit around the rim of a wooden plate they can hardly talk with it only the women have the plates there is about ten of them and they took a fancy to me. I think they saw I had some of their blood I couldnt fool them, the yongest wife was during the Cooking as I hung around the Camp fire she offered me some it was good and I would have accepted to save the price of my supper But the spit run out of her mouth on this plate and ofen droped into the pot. When I left I climbed over the fence again so it didnt cost me anything.
There will be Mardi Gras down at Nice soon and an excustion leave for Marseilles. I told my Madam I felt I must go now. She want me to come back. I have had a wonderful time in Paris. I think I love it best of all but I cant help but love the last place best.

MARSEILLES, Feb. 26th
I traveled 3rd class from Paris with Two fine young men one a soldier and the other a sailor I like traveling with the French better then the English who smoke so much and they keep the doors and windows open and you are in a draft all the time. I have a nice warm coat I would not need in the south and I thought how good it would be for one of those Plate mouthed women I was going to throw it over the fence but I didnt have time to go way out there again. Arrived at 10 P.M. the station sits up on a very high hill and a beautiful terrice at night it is as bright as day with lights so I felt very happy. I started out to look for a room. the first was nice but when the man were showing me the room he winked at me I was smart enough to say that I would take it but would go down and registar well I made two steps at a time and did not stop until I was in the street. After looking at three more I saw this Hotel it is two frs. more than I wanted to pay but I heard a child voice so I know it would be just the place the best bed and the Family that run it have a chicken in the patio and the singing of the hens wake me.
I do my marketing in the same street. Everyday I amuse myself keeping count of how many make love to me but the number were to high today I told all to walk away except a very nice colord one a captain or something in the Army. We met in the Museum I saw so many high up offices speak to him I thought this must be some person He were so nice and tried so hard I did not have the heart to tell him to walk away and to I wanted to see how he would act. I had 5 o’clock tea with Him and I never can get enough of the French Pastrys. Then I began to plan how to get away from him, we walked by a Hotel then I said good Bye with a promise to have breakfast with him tomorrow at 12. but I feel sure I’ll be near Cannes at that hour. When he were out of sight I came out. There are many colord soldiers and they ware red turbons. They have string musice on the corners and a girl with a good voice singing the poplar songs.

Mar. 6th
I had a thrilling day at Monte Carlo. The Laws are different from Nice. In Nice I went several times to play a few Franc in the Casino and see on the Ball room floor Dark colored girls in their evening cloths dancing in the Arms of Hansom White Frenchmen. The French are great Love makers being man proof I get a big kick out of them. I even sneeked into the gaming room without paying the entrance fee. But at Monte-C. I found it harder. I had on a little French cap and they thought I had slipped away from the family to gamble. Also you must prove you have money. I couldnt prove that. they said they would let me go in just once to stay only one hour. I ask what if I stay longer he said he may put me in jail. I told him I heard it was a nice jail and I would be glad to see it. Then I laid them all out and they gave me a ticket to quick. I knew I would get in. I just wanted to Know what they would say. I wanted to try the table where they played with the II cards. One of the Guards tried to tell me. But he looked so big and hansom I didnt remember a word he said. So I lost 20 franc. It was worth it.

CAP D’ANTIBES, Mar. 20th
I am on a nice job with an English Couple and in a few minutes of Garoupe Beach. My room window looks out on a lovely Pin grove next to the Villa the Orange trees are about 30 years old and the plum trees and persemmons are lovely loaded with blossoms. The Villa were built by French Pheasants some 65 or 70 years ago and so solid and homelike we have electricity to heat also small grates. I have never felt so homelike in a house as I have in this one I sleep with my head to the North its wonderful the other night I had a beautiful dream of the Most Holy Jesus I saw Him in my room under a horbor of ever greens and it was so plain I got up and called out Jesus. The favorite gaiety among the American and English here are Surprise partys the Ladies bring some kind of cooked food and each man bring a bottle of liquire They arrive at 6.30 We had one here and wonderful good food. The Americans raved over my patato salad an Irishman was more American than the others because he call Squash squash where the others say vegetable morrow. Very good for the house its given in You have enough to last for several days they dance and go home about 4 A.M. But not one of Those bliters brought roast Chicken. Everything are pyjmas. My Madame gave me a nice short coat to ware with pyjmas and it fit perfect am rubbin my rabbit foot on a pair of pyjmas. She havent handed them over yet may be it have lost its charm.

April 1st,
CHEMIN DE LA GAROUPE
I went to the Dog Show. I cant say which was the most interesting the Ladies that own the dogs or the dogs. They march round and round with the dogs. A dog will be a dog. An English or American juge his eye is for the dog but not a Frenchman thats why I like the French each lady had a chaffer or maid but she would not take a chanct on them the dog may not come up to the mark but if she have a graceful step and smile and say Oui Monsieur smiling, he’ll forget all about that poor dog. This is the most gelouries of all my life just the same plesure as when I am traveling. I once heard a lecture at Cargine Hall in N. Y. C. in 1913 which I do not agree and have ofen felt sorry for the speaker as it was on Paradise Lost. its not lost its right here on earth and I have seen so much of it.

May 15th
My family are away for a while so I can go to my favorite spot one of the Garoupe Points it is so cozy and private I call it my Villa Pine needles make my bed and I bring my books to read on my coming tour. one a short Geography of the World, the other “The Queen” newspaper Book of Travel it tells you of the climates what to ware It have every City and Town of any size in the world. the best time to visit them, it even tell about the drinking water. I also have a Directory of the Y. W. C. A. a new one comes out every year. so I feel quite at home everywhere I go. then I alway love to read Aimee McPherson Angelus Temple Paper. it is the most snappy Church paper of all. I’ll start roveing again soon I like to stay long enough to flirt in each country to test the man of each place. Its a lot in a light sprit. I was walking down to the big market place to bring out my lunch I saw a neat greesy pakage I droped it in my shoping bag hoping it was bacon and when I open it was two large slices of delicious ham and of all the people I was the one to find it thats what a light sprit does for you. I have a perfect little oven made of rocks. when I take my afternoon nap on a bed of fresh gathered Pin branches and enhail the scent and the salt smell from the Sea. with so much kindness and beauty yet if I could die tomorrow and that would be the end of my soul I would be glad to go because I really have nothing else I wish to do in this world nor the next.

May 27th
I spent the day on a Point with a croud of Campers we had fried fish and the soup fish that are so famous. I wore a red bathing suit a red handkerchief on my head with my hair down and a blue pice of cloth around me for a skirt like an Indian. I made a perfect hit. the men of course had a willing look and when they helped me to the largest fish one of the pretty wives said Holy Marie dont give her the bigest one Jean. I go down every evening and take a peep in to each of the caberets dance café I climb up on a post and have the grandest view Hollywood is the Place of Elegant. I hate to leave here but I must not put off too late getting to Italy I spent half the morning at the Italian Consulate waiting to get my passport vesaid there were so many people. I buy my Tickets from Cook because they are always a bit cheaper than the American Express but I make my exchange at the Express. I have the Italian money down to a fine point. I leave in a few days and will stop at Milan Venice Florence and Rome.

SANTA MARIA, II VIA BALBO, ROME, ITALY
I just love Rome I read up the things in a Guide book I go to the place of interest and waite until I see a bunch with an English speaking Guide then I fall in line and get my lecture for nothing I dont believe half they say no way. I love the old things they look so new. such wonderful Paintings and my the Churches I am in and out of them all day because you do not want to miss any. and I can never leave without praying I learned that in Cuba. I just must do something at night I went to a good Tradgey play last night. the Spanish make the best Tradgey actors. the cheapest scat was 6 liros and not quite 5 cents for taxes there were many swells up there with me. the Italian are much better cooks than the French. I take my coffee in a place where they serve it in a bowl that hold nearly a pint all rich milk and a little strong coffee you crumble the bread in the coffee. just once I got stung about ording I saw something on the list and thought I was getting a dish real Roman. it was two artichokes we all laughed he said he would change it I orded again expecting something more Roman and it was broiled liver. They know me now and take an interest bring big potions and they dont want me to tip. the plainest little resturant with oil cloth on the table always have nice clean table napkins. The people that I room with are lovely they have a beautiful Lady daughter with blond hair to her nees. most of the Italians are pretty and what I like best are the modest Girls and not many bobbed heads it is a great change from the American English they are nauty the Scotch very nauty but the French are really bad the worst at Nice I didnt want to believe my eyes. The Italian men are so very gentle and Gentlemen. yet they dont fail to make love to you but in a very nice way. they make good Parents.

ROME, June 14th
I know every spot about Rome. after I had seen everything I accepted the company of an Italian Proffesor and He took me about. I was studing my Guide book in the Borgese Garden and he began to talk. First he asked me if I were from Spain then he asked me if I would go to lunch with him I said No then he said may I see you at five. and I told him yes then I left to go to lunch and he followed me unbeknownst to me. I had orded my lunch in the little place I go when he came in and sat beside me. I never let any man go to the place I eat and so I were really sorry when I saw him because I had been going so quietly there and they took more interest thinking I were alone. I thought Now this is going to spoil everything. he was disgusted they didnt wait on me sooner it was just the two things I orded when he saw them he said that is nothing and then orded artichokes oranges and cheese. After that I had to change my place of eating. He took me to hear Aida.
Always he would meet me in frount of the church and leave me at the door of the Y. Then Sat. and Sun. another Gentleman that lived in N.Y.C. 25 yrs. took me about. He run a big shoe shop. I went into have heel plates put on my shoes. He took me round But I had seen everything and we went many places he had never seen. I enjoyed the lovely lunch he gave me. I make them think I am living at the Y.W.C.A. and always stop there then come home later. I spend the whole half day at each Galery and study each picture with two very good Guide books. The Picture I like best is The Crucifixion Reni it was so real it made cold chills run up my back I thought I saw the lips move.
It is the crazest laid out city I was ever in I am always lost and more so when I start home so I never think of turning in that direction until I hafter. The Proffesor wanted to take me to the Catacombs I wouldnt let him because we wouldnt had time to have lunch He had to be at his school at 3.30. It only cost 5 liros return. to go to the Catacombs and a lunch like He gives cost 3 times that. So He took me to lunch instead. I went through it twice with the Italian bunch and Guide when we came out I told the monk that I didnt understand He laughed and told me to wait for an English Bunch so I did. In the churches the man show me everything I offer a tip but they wont take it they say because I am alone but just when I go to step out the door they kiss me. the same thing has happen in every Town it is done so quick it make me laugh. Rome is very dusty its nice you dont hafter shine your shoes. then when it rains it is very muddy the other day I went to get on the street car and the conductor was teasing me and told me not to get on until I got some of the mud off my shoes.

VIA 62, NAPOLI, ITALY, June 20
The last day in Rome I was walking through their largest park I notice setting down on one of the lower Terices a colored nurce about 40 and weigh about 200 lbs. I went and ask her if she spoke English and laughed when she answered “I say I do’‘ She was a joly old Girl I spent the rest of the afternoon She think that the men are the most delightful of all men. She said it seem like a dream To her to have a Hansom Italian kissing Her hand. I hadnt give it much thought but when we got togather we sure did have a good time talking it over. Then I went home with them and had supper. the Family are from Albany N. Y. the Gentleman are in Diplomatic service. they have 4 children she is so sweet and Gentle with them and they love her so. I was down early and got a good seat on the trip from Rome most of the passagners had their lunch so it looked like a picnic party all had wine but me. To be socible I accepted a few swollows from a jug. I found a large room with a Family it has a nice view of a big Castle upon a hill. They have a nice clean old man servant and a boy of 14. am glad to have a rest from the maids asking me questions.

I love the Bay and Vesuvius look so grand I wish it would spit up a little fire my love are all for Naples just now. Tomorrow I will go to all the places that are free on Sun. Its nice to be in gay Naples after Churchie Rome.

(To be continued)